Get ready for a mouthwatering adventure in the heart of Greenpoint, where a new culinary sensation is about to take NYC by storm! Border Town, a beloved pop-up, has transformed into a full-fledged restaurant, and its flour tortillas are stealing the show.
But here's where it gets controversial: In a city known for its diverse cuisine, can a restaurant truly claim to serve the best flour tortillas? Let's dive into this tasty tale and find out!
Border Town, the brainchild of chef Jorge Aguilar and his partner Amanda Rosa, has evolved from a daytime pop-up into a bustling dinner destination. Their journey began during the pandemic, when Aguilar set out to recreate the Sonoran-style flour tortillas he grew up loving. And boy, did he deliver! His thin, slightly chewy tortillas, made with high-quality grain and a touch of pork lard, became an instant hit, often selling out during the pop-up days.
Now, with the help of new co-owner Ben Turley and head bartender Patrick Bradley, Border Town has found its permanent home in Greenpoint, offering a full bar experience. The restaurant, located at 189 Nassau Avenue, opened its doors on January 16th, and it's already making waves.
One of the unique aspects of Border Town is its commitment to being a neighborhood-friendly spot. In a city where reservations are often a necessity, Border Town embraces a walk-in policy, ensuring that locals can easily pop in for a delicious meal. The casual dining room, with its larger tables, creates a welcoming atmosphere for groups and families.
"This is our neighborhood, and these are our people," Rosa emphasizes. "We want to create a space that our community can call their own."
Border Town's menu is a celebration of Northern Mexican cuisines, drawing inspiration from Sonora, Baja California, and Monterey. Aguilar's passion for flour tortillas is evident as he and his team roll, press, and griddle the bread right at the counter, showcasing the art of tortilla-making.
The star of the show, Los Gallos Sonoran wheat flour, is sourced directly from Molino La Fama in Hermosillo, Sonora. This import is a non-negotiable ingredient, according to Rosa, as it's the key to their exceptional tortillas.
The dinner menu offers a range of delicious options, including frijoles con veneno, where refried beans are elevated with carne con chile, served with the choice of flour tortillas or corn tostadas. Guacamole norteño, mixed with red salsa and pork belly chicharrónnes, is a fresh-to-order delight, paired with an Oaxacan corn tlayuda.
One of Rosa's favorites is the tacos de nada, a unique take on fried corn tortillas filled with potatoes, served with a tomato broth, queso fresco, and salsa verde. It's a dish inspired by their visit to the popular Hermosillo vendor, Tacos de Nada.
But Border Town isn't just about food; it's also about cocktails! Head bartender Patrick Bradley, formerly of Mary's on the Lower East Side, has crafted a menu featuring lesser-known Mexican agave spirits. The drinks are described as "bright, crushable, and refreshing," with a focus on simplicity and quality.
The Desert Negroni, made with Cardenxe sotol, offers a botanical twist, while the Picafresa, a spicy-sweet strawberry concoction, pays homage to Mexican candy. The Coco Carajillo is a unique take on the classic, topped with coconut whipped cream and dark chocolate from Schmidt's Candy in Elmhurst.
Rosa is particularly excited about serving caguamas, huge 32-ounce beer bottles popular in Northern Mexico. Carta Blanca and Tecates, wrapped in Mexican newspapers, are a fun and authentic touch to the Border Town experience.
The restaurant's design, crafted by Andre Architecture, transformed a former Polish grocery store into a cozy corner space. The team even constructed the dividing wall themselves, ensuring a seamless transition from mornings to evenings.
"We wanted to create a space that caters to everyone," Turley explains. "Whether it's breakfast, lunch, or dinner, we want our guests to feel welcome and at home."
As Border Town continues to evolve, it will offer a daytime menu featuring tacos de guisados with a variety of fillings, as well as a hearty burrito packed with scrambled eggs, refried beans, and all the fixings. Breakfast plates will include a choice of guisado, sopa fria (a Mexican pasta salad), and, of course, those beloved tortillas or tostadas.
"We're just getting started," Rosa says. "This is the beginning of something special, and we can't wait to see where this journey takes us."
Border Town is currently open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday, with hours varying slightly each day. So, if you're in the mood for some seriously good flour tortillas and a taste of Northern Mexican cuisine, make your way to Greenpoint and experience Border Town for yourself!
And remember, in the world of food, opinions vary. What do you think? Is Border Town's claim to fame justified? Let's discuss in the comments!
